Paenula
The paenula was a broad, sleeveless Roman cloak that enclosed the body and protected it from bad weather. Many versions had a hood. The front could be closed or have an opening; describing it as necessarily fastened at the front is too restrictive.
It was worn by soldiers and civilians. Dense wool suited a travelling cloak; written sources also mention leather versions. Length and construction could vary.
Compared with the toga, primarily a marker of public civic dress, the paenula was better suited to travel and cold weather. It was not a compulsory garment for every inhabitant of the ancient world.
Bas-relief of a shepherd in Lucera,4th-2nd century BC
Fragment of a tombstone with a penula and buttons. Find from Camomile Street,near the remains of the Roman Wall near London. 1-2 century AD
Bas-relief with a Praetorian guard from Pozzuoli,2nd century AD.A hooded wool cloak known as a find from Lahun in Egypt, now in the University Museum in Philadelphia, offers an important comparison. Hero Granger-Taylor discusses its construction in her study of the Lahun cloaks. Its twill weave and the formation of the shoulder area and hood show why the garment cannot be reduced to a modern “semicircle with an attached hood” pattern.
This is Late Antique comparative evidence. The date of museum acquisition, recorded findspot and dating of the textile are different kinds of information. The construction of a later Egyptian cloak should not automatically be assigned to every Roman soldier of the first and second centuries.
Hooded cloak known as a find from Lahun, Egypt. Late Antique comparative example.
Construction of the hooded cloak known as a find from Lahun, Egypt. Late Antique comparative example.Reconstruction
Choose a cloak appropriate to the date and setting: travelling, military or civilian. Before cutting the final cloth, make a trial model and check arm movement, front length and hood fit. Wearing the hood over a helmet should not be assumed to be compulsory.
The cloth required depends on its width, the wearer’s height and the cloak’s construction; there is no universal minimum of three metres. Dense wool is practical, while colour, decoration and closure should follow the chosen example.
Modern reconstruction of a legionary wearing a paenula.
Modern reconstruction diagrams of Egyptian cloaks: Lahun above (1.98 × 3 m), Ballana below (1.66 × 2.83 m). The examples should be considered separately by date and provenance.
Modern reconstruction pattern proposed from textile finds at Augst, first–third century CE.Related topics
Sagum,Legionary,Auxiliaries,The Celts
Literature and sources
- Graham Sumner. Roman Military Dress. The History Press, 2009.
- Hero Granger-Taylor. “Weaving Clothes to Shape in the Ancient World” 25 Years On: Corrections and Further Details with Particular Reference to the Cloaks from Lahun. Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 45, 2007, pp. 26–35.
- Paenulas — Fitzwilliam Museum terminology catalogue.
- Roman cloaks: workshop at the Haltern Roman Museum.
- Paul Guiraud. La vie privée et la vie publique des Romains.
- Joachim Marquardt. Das Privatleben der Römer. 1886.
Relief of three hooded figures (genii cucullati) from the area of Hadrian’s Wall, second century CE.
Bronze statue of Priapus,consisting of two parts. Found in Rivery. Picardy Museum in Amiens. 2nd half of the 1st century AD
Small bronze figure of a farmer wearing a cloak, from the Trier region, third century CE.
Bronze statuette of Telesphorus in a hooded cloak. National Archaeological Museum, Florence; inv. 2321. First–second century CE.Interested in Ancient Rome beyond reading? Join Legio X Fretensis or explore our reenactment directions.
