Sagum
The sagum was a cloak made from a rectangular piece of cloth, chiefly wool, strongly associated in Roman tradition with military service. It was worn over clothing and fastened with a brooch at the shoulder or neck. Unlike the enclosing paenula, this mantle allowed greater freedom to change the drapery. The edges could have fringes or other decoration.
Funerary stele of Marcus Aurelius Neon of Legio II Traiana Fortis, wearing a cloak. Brussels; inv. A.2246. 222–235 CE.
Bas-relief from Adamklisi depicting standard bearers in sagums,early 2nd century AD.
Funerary stele of Aurelius Sabius, associated with Legio II Traiana Fortis. Alexandria; inv. 252. 222–250 CE.The sagum appears in representations of soldiers of different ranks. It should not be regarded as exclusively officers’ dress or declared unpopular with all legionaries and auxiliaries. A funerary cloak may emphasise dignity and military affiliation rather than depict its wearer’s usual campaigning clothes.
The fastening, shoulder line and free edge of the cloth help explain how it was worn. Some images show a cloak draped over the arm. Any proposed attachment to phalerae should be checked on the individual monument: a decorative disc or strap is not necessarily a cloak fastening.
Useful comparisons include reliefs of the Tropaeum Traiani at Adamclisi and the funerary portrait of the primipilus Quintus Sertorius Festus of Legio XI Claudia. Individual monuments do not establish the popularity of a cloak throughout the army.
Relief of Quintus Sertorius Festus, primipilus of Legio XI Claudia, with a cloak over his arm. Inv. 28160; first century CE.
Part of a bas-relief with the sagum of a centurion from the Museo Civico agli Eremitani,Italy. 25-0 BC.In Latin literature, the sagum could signify military readiness in contrast with the civilian toga. Taking up the military cloak should be understood in the context of the particular text, not necessarily as a literal description of enlistment.
Rectangular mantles also occur among the Celts and in the Greek world. A similar outline does not make every such garment a Roman sagum. A cloak in Macedonian painting, for example, belongs to its local dress context and may be compared with the chlamys.
Painted figure wearing a cloak from the Macedonian tomb at Agios Athanasios. Last quarter of the fourth century BCE.
Statue of a Gallic warrior wearing a cloak, found at Mondragon, Vaucluse, France. First century BCE.Reconstruction
Reconstruction uses a rectangular piece of woollen cloth. Choose its size for the wearer, the selected image and the intended length of the folds; 1.5 × 2 m can be a trial size, not an established ancient standard.
Cloak colour should not be assigned solely by military branch or people. The evidence does not establish a uniform green cloak for all auxiliaries or a compulsory separate palette for Celts and Greeks. Undyed wool also comes in several shades.
During fitting, check how the cloth folds at the shoulder and is held by the brooch. Add fringe or embroidery according to the chosen example. A modern attachment through straps or decorative discs should be distinguished from a documented ancient detail.
Option of wearing sagum over the arm,reconstruction
Classic version of wearing sagum with fibula attachment at the neck,reconstruction
Modern reconstruction of a cloak attachment through a phalera; the proposed fastening is interpretative.Related topics
Paenula, Paludamentum, Legionnaire, Centurion, Phalerae, Toga, Chlamys, Himation, Fibula
Literature and sources
- Graham Sumner. Roman Military Dress. The History Press, 2009.
- Roman cloaks: reconstruction workshop at the Haltern Roman Museum.
- William Ramsay. Sagum, in William Smith, ed., A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities. 1875, p. 1002 — ancient references and historical discussion.
Tombstone of P. Flavoleius Cordus,a legionnaire from legio XIV Gemina. Kleinwinternheim. 1st century AD
Sagum patterns of various sizes. One of the exhibits is decorated with sewn "corners"Interested in Ancient Rome beyond reading? Join Legio X Fretensis or explore our reenactment directions.
