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Fabrics in antiquity

Евсеенков А.С.

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A fairly large amount of information has been preserved about the use of fabrics in antiquity, which makes it possible to correctly compose images of peoples living at that time. Much is known about both dyes and trade relations, which allow us to evaluate the possibility of coloring materials. There is also a "triad of sources" - both written and archaeological with visual ones, which allows us to give an accurate description of the density of fabrics, their drapery, weaving and colors.

Material

The most common material for fabrics in antiquity is definitely wool. Almost all finds have wool as the basis of weaving, and sheep's wool was most often used. It was the most practical and cheap material - it warmed well, was wear-resistant and best protected from adverse weather conditions.

In second place for use in clothing is flax. It should be noted that today it is considered a more expensive material to produce than wool. It was less wear-resistant, but it was possible to get a cooler and thinner material from it, which was especially useful in hot climates. In addition, the fineness of the material often gave additional opportunities for draping fabrics, which was especially appreciated by the Greeks and Romans. Flax in antiquity was most common among the Hellenic peoples.

The rarest type of fabric was silk and was rarely used in clothing, as it was an imported material bought by Rome for literally fabulous sums. With the money needed to buy a silk dress, you could buy yourself a good villa with slaves at that time, and this was considered a great waste. Only the upper echelons of the nobility could afford such a luxury, and then only on rare occasions.

Weaving

The most common weaving in antiquity was linen, consisting of fabric fibers intertwined crosswise. But there were also other types of weaving, such as "twill" and "herringbone", which were more common in the northern provinces of Rome and barbarian peoples (for example, among the Celts and Germans).

Examples of weaving Celtic fabrics

One of the most valuable archaeological treasures to find Roman fabrics can be considered mass finds in the Caves of Letters (Judea). Cave of Letters (Meרתי היגרות, Me'arat Ha'igrot) is a cave in Nahal Hever in the Judean Desert, where ancient texts have been found, some of which are related to the period of the Bar Kokhba Revolt and are estimated to be from the end of the 1st century and the beginning of the 2nd century AD.

All the fabric found there has a plain weave of wool fibers with different densities and qualities. The main color schemes are colorless, yellow, cream, white, red, blue and purple shades. Many have woven patterns of a different color (clavies and corners, as well as brands of masters). Most of the recognized finds were tunics and cloaks. It should be noted that all the samples were not sewn or embroidered patterns, namely woven. Samples from excavation No. 2.41-35 are presented below. The edge is reinforced 3 (4 4 4) 5(8 4 4 4 2 2). Warp threads 8-10/1 thick, density 11/cm. At the same time, the patterns have a denser structure - up to 20/cm. Processing the edge perpendicular to the warp threads - a rope parallel to the cut.

A Fragment Of Wool Fabric. Cave of Letters. Excavation number 2.41-35. 1-2 century AD
A Fragment Of Wool Fabric. Cave of Letters. Excavation number 2.41-35. 1-2 century AD
A Fragment Of Wool Fabric. Cave of Letters. Excavation number 2.41-35. 1-2 century AD

Fabrics from Egypt

In the ancient world of fabrics, it occupied a special place Egypt. This ancient region has maintained a leading position in both art and light textile production for a long time - both in the time of the Pharaohs, and as part of the Greek state, and as part of the Roman one. This combination made it possible to become a stronghold of the most expensive fabrics that are readily exported. Also, one of the important reasons for the development of light industry was the advanced technology of manufacturing looms. Egyptian fabrics differed in their thickness. Local craftsmen made the finest fabric in the ancient world, and it was of the highest quality. Often found and linen, and woolen segments, richly decorated with various patterns and subjects. This quality also applies to products made of wool and linen - for example, wool socks, many of which were difficult work by the standards of that time. Also, a distinctive feature of Egyptian textiles can be considered a combination of fabrics made of different materials, most often-from wool and linen.

We know a lot about the industry of Egypt due to its active trade relations with neighboring states (and later with neighboring regions within the Roman Empire), the tradition of burial in burials (many useful exhibits were found in tombs) and, most importantly, the climate, thanks to which, along with Judea, many fabric and leather products were preserved.

Fragments of segmental ornaments of Roman clothing from Egypt. Wool and flax. The size of the strips is 40*3.9 cm. The size of a rectangular fragment is 8 * 24 cm. The Walters Art Museum, inv. no. 83.485. 5th-6th century AD
A fragment of Egyptian cloth. Wool and flax. Size 8.5*7cm. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Inv. # 90.5.183. 5th century AD
A fragment of Egyptian cloth. Linen and wool. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Inv. no. 89.18.214. 3rd-4th century AD

Staining

Depending on belonging to a particular nationality, the dyeing of fabrics in antiquity could vary greatly. The Celts were dominated by green, blue and brick shades of color, the Romans and Greeks had a greater variety in colors, which differed depending on the social stratum. To date, many finds of fabrics in white/red and blue shades are known, most of which were found in Egypt, Judea and the northern parts of the Empire, for example, in the territory of modern Germany. This is due to the peculiarities of the climate, where the fabric could be preserved especially carefully.

Examples of weaving Celtic fabrics

Written sources

Colorants

1) Madder dye-Rubia tinctoria. It first appeared presumably in Egypt, no later than 2000 BC. e. The active substance-alizarin-extraction with hot slightly alkaline solutions from roots. Madder gives well-preserved coatings with metal oxides, slightly changing its shade.

2) Alkana dye - Alkanna tinctoria. It first appeared presumably in Egypt, no later than 3500 BC. e. The active substance-alkonite-extraction with hot slightly alkaline solutions from the roots. Iron and aluminum mordants can change shades.

1) Safflower dye-Carthamus tinctorius. It first appeared presumably in Egypt. Active substance - cartamine - extraction of dye from petals in slightly alkaline solutions. It is able to paint without mordants, but the color is not persistent.

2) Henna-Lawsonia non-prickly-Lawsonia inermis. It first appeared presumably in Egypt, no later than 3000 BC. e. The active substance-2-hydroxy-1,4 naphthoquinone-the leaves are dried, ground, and the dye is extracted in a slightly alkaline solution.

1) Saffron-Crocus Sativus. Mesopotamia (?) - circa 2000 BC Active substance-crocin-extraction with weakly alkaline solutions.

2) Reseda-Reseda luteola. Ancient Greece or Rome. The active substance is luteolin. Most likely extracted with hot water. They could be used together with alumina mordant.

3) Dye droc-Genista tinctoria. Presumably Ancient Greece. The active substance is glucosidogenysteine. It was extracted with slightly alkaline solutions or hot water.

4) Celandine - Chelidonium Majus. Presumably-Ancient Greece. The active substance is chelidonin.

1) Lichens - Rocella. Minoan civilization around 2000 BC. e. Active substance-litmus. It was extracted with slightly alkaline solutions.

2) Vida krasilnaya - Isatis tinctoria. It first appeared presumably in Egypt, no later than 2500 BC. e. The active substance is indigotine. The leaves were crushed with a small amount of water and left to ferment in tall pots for half a month.

3) Indigofera dye - Indigofera tinctoria. Presumably appeared in India, no later than 2000 BC. Indigotine. The leaves are fermented, then intensively stirring, an oxidizer is added.

1) Mollusk-Brandaris Bolinus. Phoenicia, the cities of Sidon and Tyre. Active substance-6, 6 dibromindigo. For extraction, the pulp of clams was cooked, which allowed the dye to be extracted. To increase the color intensity, the resulting mixture was left in the sun or in acidic solutions.

2) Oak worm-Coccus ilicis. One of the oldest colors, Neolithic. The active ingredient is kermesic acid. The dye is extracted with water, oxidized or slightly alkaline solutions. Pre-mordant greatly changes the color.

Vida Extract
Extract of gorse dye
Madder Extract

Related topics

Ancient Greece, Rome, The Celts, Tunic, Ancient Egypt, Socks

Gallery

A fragment of wool fabric. Late Roman period. Length 31 cm, width 18 cm. Description:Shamir A. 2005. Textiles, BasketryCordage and Whorls from Mo'a ATIQOT 50: 99 152, Pl. 126.
A fragment of wool fabric. Found in Masada. Length 17 cm, width - 7 cm. Description: Sheffer A. and Granger Taylor H. 1994. Textiles from Masada: A Preliminary Selection. In Y. Aviram , G. Foerster, and E. Netzer eds.. Preserved in Jerusalem, 153,256. 1st century A.D.

Ancient Egypt

A piece of cloth depicting the earth goddess Gaia. Flax, wool. Egypt. Tapestry technique. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Inv. no. DV-11440. 3-4 centuries A.D.
A piece of cloth with the image of Eros. Flax, wool. Egypt. Tapestry technique. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Inv. no. DV-13216. 4th century AD
A piece of cloth depicting Dionysus, Ariandne and the twelve labors of Hercules. Flax, wool. Egypt. Tapestry technique. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Inv. no. DV-11337. 5th-6th centuries A.D.
A piece of cloth with an image of the Amazon. Flax, wool. Egypt. Tapestry technique. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Inv. no. DV-12959. 5th century AD
A piece of cloth depicting Dionysus and the Maenad. Flax, wool. Egypt. Tapestry technique. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Inv. no. DV-11334. 4th century AD
Egyptian flax. The Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. 1st millennium BC
Egyptian flax. The Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. 1st millennium BC
Egyptian flax. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 13th-11th century BC
The fabric is patterned. Plant ornament. Wool (tapestry carpet technique). Kerch (Glinishche, stone tomb). Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, inv. no. p. 1890.4. 1st century AD
Egyptian flax. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 13th-11th century BC
Egyptian flax. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 13th-11th century BC
Egyptian flax. Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 13th-11th century BC
Egyptian flax. The Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. 1st millennium BC
Egyptian flax. The Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. 1st millennium BC
A fragment of Egyptian cloth. Linen and wool. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Inv. # 89.18.287. 3rd-4th century AD

Cave of Letters