Roman society was patriarchal, but a man’s position depended on citizenship, freedom, age, wealth and household authority. A citizen’s political rights did not belong to every man: enslaved people and peregrini had different legal status. Women did not hold ordinary elected magistracies, but could own property, participate in cult and influence family and public relationships.
Men belonging to different social groups and occupying different positions in society dressed completely differently. By their clothing, it was easy to distinguish representatives of the following classes: - Military (legionnaires,centurions,legates) - Aristocrats (such as senators) - The priests (the pontiffs,augurs,flamines) - Commoners (artisans, peasants, philosophers, etc.) - The Peregrines (the same artisans and peasants who are not citizens of Rome) - Gladiators - Slaves Clothing and weapons of military and gladiators are discussed in detail in the relevant sections, as they contain many specific details. However, it is possible to distinguish basic wardrobe items that were more or less typical for all men of Ancient Rome (their presence or absence depended on their social status): - Tunic - Balteus - Toga (only free citizens of Rome were allowed to wear it) - Sandals,calcei - Subligaculum - Paenula - Braccae (they were especially popular with Peregrines and residents of the northern provinces) - Windings - Saccus - Wallet - Rings
A reconstruction of male dress should specify period, region, occupation and legal status. A tunic, belt and suitable footwear could form the basis of daily clothing. Two red or blue clavi were not obligatory for every craftsman: the width, colour and presence of stripes require specific evidence.
The toga was primarily civic and ceremonial dress, usually worn over a tunic. Reconstruction should use images, texts and archaeology appropriate to the chosen period. Fashions in hairstyles also changed.




Actors preparing for a satyr play. Mosaic from the House of the Tragic Poet at Pompeii, 69–79 CE; Naples, National Archaeological Museum, inv. 9986. Masks, costume, danced movement and a double-pipe player turn a lost performance into a carefully organised image.Interested in Ancient Rome beyond reading? Join Legio X Fretensis or explore our reenactment directions.